ASA: the corners lift and the part comes off the bed mid-print

Symptom

With ASA, the corners of the part curl upwards after a few layers, the base comes away from the plate and sometimes the part comes off completely mid-print or the nozzle hits the lifted area.

Likely causes, from most to least likely

1. Shrinkage on cooling: the edges cool before the centre and pull the corners up (Bambu Lab). Prusa attributes ASA's strong warping to the temperature difference between the part and its surroundings.
2. An open printer, draughts or a cold room: Bambu Lab warns that large flat ABS, ASA or PC parts almost always warp without an enclosure.
3. A dirty plate or no glue: skin grease is the number one cause of poor adhesion (Bambu Lab), and ASA needs glue on the plate.
4. A bed that is too cold or the part fan on from the start: Prusa sets the bed to 105 °C for the first layer and 110 °C for the rest, and Elegoo suggests turning the fans off or down for the first 5-20 layers.
5. A large part, very dense infill or many walls: Bambu Lab advises not exceeding 50% infill or 6 walls.
6. Damp filament: if it pops while printing or the surface comes out bubbly, it has absorbed moisture (Bambu Lab).

Checks to tell which one it is

• Are you printing with the printer closed? Without an enclosure, large ASA parts almost always warp.
• Look for draughts near the printer: windows, air conditioning or fans.
• Check the bed temperature, the fan for the first layers and whether there is a brim in the profile.
• Check that the plate is clean and has glue on it.

Before you start

Before taking anything apart, cleaning or adjusting it, switch the printer off and unplug it, unless a step says otherwise, and do not touch the nozzle, the heater block or the bed until they have cooled down. If in any doubt about electricity, heat or moving parts, stop and ask a professional.

Step-by-step fix

1. Ventilate without draughts and protect yourself from fumes

   ASA gives off fumes containing styrene: print it in a ventilated room but without draughts on the part (Prusa), and not for hours in bedrooms or living rooms (Bambu Lab). If your printer has an activated carbon filter, replace it when due.

   Check: No smell builds up and there are no draughts on the printer.

   If that does not fix it: Prepare the plate (next step).

2. A clean plate with glue

   Wash the plate with warm water and dish soap, dry it and do not touch the surface with your fingers (Bambu Lab). Apply a thin, even layer of glue stick: for ASA, Prusa asks for it on smooth or textured PEI. Do not put acetone or dissolved ASA on powder-coated plates (Prusa).

   Check: The first layer sticks well all around the outline.

   If that does not fix it: Warm up the bed and the chamber (next step).

3. Hot bed and chamber, no draughts

   Use the filament maker's bed temperature (Prusa: 105 °C for the first layer and 110 °C for the rest) and close the door and lid. If the corners lift, Bambu Lab suggests raising the bed by 10-15 °C, without exceeding your printer's maximum, and aims for 40 °C or more in the chamber. With no chamber control and a cold room, preheat the bed to its maximum for about 15 minutes before starting (Bambu Lab, X1C and P1S).

   Check: The corners stay flat after the first layers.

   If that does not fix it: Adjust the fan and the brim (next step).

4. No fan at the start, and a brim

   Turn off the part fan for the first layers (Bambu Lab uses 3; Elegoo suggests turning it off or down for the first 5-20 with warp-prone materials) and add a brim. If only the corners lift, put brim ears on those corners. Without an enclosure, Prusa suggests enabling a draft shield in the slicer.

   Check: The brim stays flat and the part does not come loose.

   If that does not fix it: Reduce the stress in the part (next step).

5. Less stress in the part

   Avoid more than 50% infill and more than 6 walls (Bambu Lab); for large flat parts, Bambu Lab suggests gyroid infill of up to 25%, which shrinks more evenly. If the part is large and flat and you have no enclosure, Bambu Lab suggests printing it in PLA or PETG.

   Check: The part finishes without lifting.

   If that does not fix it: Dry the filament (next step).

6. Dry the ASA

   If it pops while printing or the base comes out bubbly, dry it: Prusa uses 80 °C for 4 h for its ASA, and Bambu Lab 75-85 °C for 8 h in a convection oven. Elegoo asks for ASA to be dried in an enclosed dryer.

   Check: It no longer pops and the base comes out smooth.

   If that does not fix it: If it still lifts, check the levelling and the first-layer Z offset.

Prevention

• Always print ASA enclosed, on a clean plate with glue.
• Keep the printer away from windows, air conditioning and fans.
• Store ASA dry and dry it if it has been left out.

Still not fixed?

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Printers it applies to

Any FDM (filament) 3D printer, from any brand.

Material: ASA.

Official sources

This guide summarises the official documentation linked here:

• ASA (material guide) · Prusa Research
• ABS / ASA / PC Usage Guide · Bambu Lab
• Model Warping, Falling Off, or Collapsing · Bambu Lab
• Edge Warping (Warping) · Elegoo
• Guide to FDM Printing Filament (ASA drying) · Elegoo
• Drying filament · Prusa Research